SAUDI ARABIA Identity

The holiest city in the world for Muslims is Makkah or as the west term it as Mecca.

I had visited KSA, UAE, Bahrain and Oman already for art, fashion and culture.

Under the progressive leadership of 40year old Mohammed bin Salman Al Saud, the de facto ruler of Saudi Arabia, Saudi Arabia had opened up as a centre of culture to international visitors from around 2019 as part of ‘Vision 2030’. Notably women could now drive in Saudi Arabia which I was determined to. “Historically, the most celebrated moments in Saudi have been traditional events, like Eid-al-Fitr, Eid-al-Adha, and Saudi National Day. However, new peak moments are emerging in Saudi throughout the year including “Saudi Founding Day”, “Riyadh Season” — a three-month long annual entertainment and sports festival — and Halloween have all grown”. Equestrian and particularly Football is a big deal in Saudi with its most famous captain being Ronaldo. Oil rich Saudi is also digitally literate meaning many new products and services are being developed in the region and they fund innovation.

Though its main visitors were still for religious reasons.

It was twice in a lifetime for muslims as obligatory if you have the means to visit is the pilgrimage Hajj. Umra is additional - Hajj lite and not a substitute. Both need spiritual prep. In fact all Muslims pray towards the Mosque Masjid-al-Haram where the Kabah sat. The big black cube stone always shown in the media in the centre of millions of people. Apparently when my parents took me when I was a toddler in the mid 1970s I argued with my dad that the Kabah was too small for Allah to reside in. My dad told me this story with such a big smile so many times.

During Ramadan as it was for us, all routes to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia were particularly busy with the international Muslim community. On the plane to Jeddah via Istanbul (chatting to someone from the UK) a taxi driver dressed in normal clothes like the whole plane until we changed at Istanbul airport SAW. There after him with 90% of the passengers men and women from Istanbul to Jeddah were naked but dressed in white robes. This tradition is to humble everyone as equal.

And as we got closer to Jeddah, the full cabin filled up with melodic prayer chanting from the white robed smiling army. I looked out of the window past Persia and we could see the shimmering lights of Makkah. The excitement was palpable. It was quite magical.

We reached Jeddah in the middle of the night, it was all a bit daunting. I knew KSA was safe and we were heavily monitored. There was a raised stone platform where a café with internet sat. with some women nearby. It took a good 30 minutes for the uber taxi to appear. We had some fun and games with the taxi driver who initially couldn’t find our 5 star hotel as the name had changed, in the Red Sea Mall.

It was a modern hotel with a swimming pool. We felt a little self conscious to go swimming though we did see some kids swim in the pool while their parents sipped juices. I did use the womens gym there every morning and I was fasting. Persia joined in in the fasting. I had purposely situated us in the mall so we could easily get food and also clothes or anything we felt like. We did go to the mall a lot. And we did eat in the mall as well as the buffet dinner at the hotel which was amazing. It was nice to break fast with a group as well. My favourite dish was pistachio coated lamb chops. Absolutely perfectly cooked in the hotel.

During Ramadan it’s like being in a different time zone. Things get lively in the evening during dusk and dawn.

I thought that going to Makkah would be only for pilgrims but there were cultural tours available for all Muslims. It was easy enough, we got a comfort uber from Jeddah to Mecca (101.6km / approx 1hr / 242 SAR / £50) which took us from a pick up point in a hotel in Mecca. Well I say easy, Persia had a set of hello kitty lip glosses in a little bag her dad had given her and she left one in the uber taxi which upset her a lot. After a lot of disruption and losses in her life over the last 12 months particularly the last few years she got really upset when she lost anything else. I had found this with grief and divorce. And she missed her dad a lot especially as we travelled together – our first family holiday was to France when she was just 3 months old and then another trip to Europe Spain Portugal before we starting long hauls with her – Julian and I and Persia travelling as a family of 3 to Japan at age 6months.

Before she was born everyone had said that travel was a nightmare with kids, so we and so we carried on and we had visited around 60 countries already by age 11. And most of those with us a family of 3.

But since 2022 – I had now travelled solo a few times and / or with Persia. I had taken her to LA/San Francisco and also Kenya. This was certainly the most adventurous coming to Saudi Arabia.

I was keen to share the Makkah adventure with Persia to open her mind and also have an insight of her heritage from my side. All the same it was a new life experience for both of us. I felt very honoured we could do this. I’ve been thinking about Islam, particularly since Mum died in 2019 and then again when Dad died in 2023. I saw solace in spirituality and religion and I was just curious.

Makkah felt quite mysterious because I had never met anyone before who had been there just for a cultural visit. And those in the community who had been there for Hajj or Umra (pilgrimage light) didn’t really talk about it in detail other than the sense of fulfilment it gave them as a requirement for a Muslim, that it was arduous and they had picked up colds. In fact they were among around 3 million pilgrims (who visit in the last month of the Muslim calendar) following in the footsteps of the Prophet Muhammed (pbuh) completed his first and only Hajj in AD 628.

And there is a period of preparation and serious conviction and intent of the pilgrimage.

To put in context what Hajj is about … It relates to Abraham, the prophet from the Old Testament. To those who are new to this, Abraham is important for Jews, Christians and Muslims and that’s why they are called Abrahamic religions and these religions all sprung out of the middle east.

So Hajj is a series of rituals which happen in the city of Mecca and different landmarks have different significance.

The main landmarks are

-                The Kabbah

-                The 2 great mosques including the Grand Mosque Masjid al-Haram

-                The well Zamzam

-                Mount Arafat

-                Jabal Thawr

-                Jabal al-Nour

Our Pakistani guide recounted the traditions and the stories which connected to the actual places we were. Imagine all mentioned in the Koran and throughout religious history. It was breathtaking.

Persia was curious and getting a Religious Education in situ. She has also visited the Vatican but yet to visit Bethlehem as I am.

“Hajj itself centres around the tests of Abraham (Ibrahim)

-                Rites 1 : Abraham is ordered to abandon his wife (Hagar/ Hajira) and son (Ishmael); Hajira desperately runs and up down the hills Safa and Marwa looking for provisions and asking God for help, and when she returns to her baby son, he is scratching the ground with this feet, and beneath him is a bubbling freshwater well (thought to be the well Zamzam) which saves them both.

o               Hajj pilgrims renacts this search of the hills.

o               Hajj pilgrims drink water from the well Zamzam

-                Rites 2 : Abraham is ordered to sacrifice his son and on his way, the devil tempts him to dissuade him, before Abraham is about to proceed with the sacrifice and his son is replaced by a ram by God.

o               Hajj Pilgrims throw stones at these ‘temptations’ symbolically marked by Jamarat (2 pillars in the desert just outside of Mecca).

o               Muslims around the globe (not just the pilgrims at Mecca) sacrifice an animal at Eid-al-Adha on 10th of Dhu al-Hijjah.

-                Rites 3 : Abraham and his son Ishmael, at the station of Abraham ( ) rebuild the Kabaah 4000 years ago.

o               Hajj Pilgrims connect with this by praying behind the Kabaah after circling it 7 times (tawaf).”

To accommodate this practice of approximately 3 million pilgrims from all around the world during this short period of time mostly through Jeddah and Medinah, the Saudi government give out specific visas and you have to pay approximately $10k for the hajj visa and stay on site in tents and hotels. There is a festival atmosphere with tents and everyone robed in white togas with a strong focus.

Taif

Our guide asked us if we optionally wanted to go to the renowned city of nearby Taif in the Shafa mountains. We had to pay extra directly to him. It was approximately an extra £80. I figured we had come all this way, so why not. I said that I would love to.

Taif is mentioned in the Qu’ran and Prophet Mohammed visited there and of course I was keen to check out a new place.

And then I pretty much fell asleep and awoke surrounded by mountains at a petrol station where we would change vehicles.

The petrol station was surrounded by a variety of shops including this quirky café. I was fasting but I liked checking local shops so had a little look around including the local supermarket.

We drove up the mountain ranges past spectacular views including a troop of baboons (do not open your windows to them – they are wild and hungry).

On the search of a perfume making factory, we stopped off at an pretty old village with rickety farmhouses, windy streets and vegetable patches.

Our guide mentioned that he wanted to stop off at Taif and pray and I was welcome to join him. I felt embarrassed that I did not feel confident to pray so I replied I was happy to go and visit any landmarks would rather prepare before praying so I want to do it next time I am back.

He said that the Masjid Abdullah Ibn Abbas was built by the grave of a great Islamic scholar, cousin of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) called Abdullah Ibn Abbas. He was known for knowledge and expertise in Tafsir (exegesis of the Quran) and an authority on the Islamic Sunnah, the practice of the Prophet.

Persia stayed in the car and I hurried along side our guide. I mentioned that I didn’t know how to pray. He said ‘I don’t understand what you are saying – to me’. I repeated myself and he repeated that he didn’t understand.

I figured I could just watch and see what happens.

It was a significant mosque in the Makkah region, it was Ramadan, … our guide disappeared into the hustle bustle of a large crowd for Friday Jummah prayers.  The imam was singing the prayers over the loud speaker so you could hear his voice.

I tentatively walked into the women’s entrance. It led to a big bright courtyard. On one side there was a place for shoes with a shaded doorway into the prayer room.

I took off my boots and stepped inside.

There with children praying, playing, sleeping and weaving in and out of the rows of women focussed on their prayers. It felt peaceful but casual. I found a place to stand. I certainly did not feel at all prepared but felt very accepted.

Initially I just took photos and a 360 video. I didn’t want to impose. And then I found myself following the prayer rituals with everyone else. I felt very at peace and that I had really achieved something on the trip. I mean it was certainly not what I had set out to do but what an amazing opportunity and honour to have followed prayers with locals in this mosque on a Friday during Ramadan. It was of course a highly spiritual experience, and I felt very supported by the ladies and children and men throughout. I was clearly someone who does not know to pray but I just followed the others.

Afterwards I stepped out with the crowds as a confluence onto the road of parked cars and traffic for such a small road. Persia had been chilling out. It felt safe, there is little crime in KSA. We were tourists and were being scrutinized which felt like a good thing.

So did I become a more devout Muslim ? I am not sure but it did deepen my understanding of myself and where I fit in, in the religious context. I am still a liberal and mix with all religions and they are part of me as I try and find common ground with people from all places. We then drove around Mecca, taking photos of the different sites. There was a lot of construction in the area to accommodate more pilgrims and there were miles and miles of tents and hotels fenced of facing the mosque and the Kaabah. It was breath taking to see such a congregation at any one point.

We also stopped at a tiny little holy house where the Prophet peace be upon him would go to.

Back in Jeddah we went for a leisurely stroll along the immaculate corniche. No doubt I will back to try some snorkelling along the coast.

Update

New rules have been implemented so you can only visit Makkah during Hajj if you have a specific Hajj visa not just a normal tourist visa.